Dresses are short! Or for a long time. Gothic black is back! Minimalistic white too. Today, looks don’t change, they evolve—one idea quickly builds on the next, giving you more and more choices. Here are the AW22 talking points:
Appearance: Tweed 3.0
“Dedicating an entire collection to tweed is a tribute,” says Virginie Viare, who went so far as to cover the Chanel showroom in different shades of the fabric. But the awe ended there: it was not the Queen of the Highlands (although fishermen unexpectedly appeared on the runway). This season’s trend is sweet but not sugary, sophisticated but playful at the same time, with an optimistic and completely youthful spirit. Are tweed shorts appropriate for the office?
Trend: School uniform
Pleated plaid kilts, Peter Pan collars, half-buttoned ties, white tights and tracksuits: AW22 offers a host of looks designed to hang out behind the bike racks. A careless 60-year-old told the Miu Miu show that it’s styles for girls who are too cool for school.
This season, the printed silk scarf is getting brighter. A clash of colors and contrast, because anything goes – if you master the Sloane Ranger knot. Plus, amp it up with a leather tie.
The lines are blurred when it comes to gender clothing. What’s working now is a flexible take on menswear and womenswear, using timeless tailoring as a starting point to subvert style norms, as seen at Erdem: “I was thinking of the avant-garde expressionism of Weimar Berlin. Imagine characters like dancer Anita Berber and how she would wear the costume. I liked the idea of showing the same silhouettes for men and women – they are fluid and interchangeable.”
Work: On the fringe
Matthieu Blazy’s debut at Bottega Veneta was full of surefire hits. But this season’s super-high street style will definitely be his fringed midi leather skirt. “Bottega Veneta is inherently pragmatic because it is a leather company. Because it specializes in bags, it’s about movement and going somewhere. In general, there is the idea of craft in motion,” he says, inspired by the waving of his fringe. “It’s style over fashion in its timelessness. That’s part of his quiet strength.”
Length: Short and sweet
The AW22 catwalks saw a youthful push for mini dresses, where Sixties rebellion met Noughties exuberance in a parade of pastels that was anything but morbid. Miu Miu was at its peak again, but cute little looks were everywhere from Loewe to Simone Rocha. “My last collection was initially influenced by [Irish myth] Children of Lear. Children transform when they are young, and I wanted the youth and naivety to be embodied in the silhouette. So some of the hemlines have become very adolescent, very micro,” says Rosha.
“The higher, the better” is the motto of this season’s shoes. These are boots to style with mini skirts and dresses – look out for metallics and jewel tones.
Form: maxi coat
We don’t usually like style dictates, but AW22 made one thing clear: when in doubt, wear a long, thin coat over it.
Statement: Suits vs. Bodysuits
How short, tight, cut and sheer can you be? This is a trend for those who dare to bare.
Mood: I see right through you
This season, the catwalks were dominated by exquisite necklines, slim-fitting pants, sprinkled with delicate sequins, and luxurious lace pieces. Miucci Prada and Raf Simons featured mesh numbers with crystals, while Erdem’s 1930s-inspired collection included numerous dresses in translucent lace.
Texture: Pull the wool
It’s time to turn off the heat and get down to wearing sweaters. From coats to cardigans, two piece sets and double sets, anything goes as long as it’s knitted.
Atmosphere: Nice in the style of punk
Rebellion is always a good idea. A punk energy flowed through AW22, with underwear getting tougher with crystal embellishments, vinyl boots giving way to baby doll silhouettes and feminine subversion was everywhere. If you only take one piece, make it Miu Miu’s velvet and diamond choker.
Last season’s sexual obsession has gone from hot to lush in AW22. Fastening a corset over a matching top is a new way to make a bodycon.
Moment: Oh my Goth
Opt for leather this season – make sure it’s black, smooth and incredibly shiny. AW22 styles are more protective than provocative, reminiscent of a kind of body armor. From military-style corsets from Dior and Balmain to cloaks and tinted visors from Dolce & Gabbana and glossy combat boots from Alexander McQueen, embrace the dark side.
This article appears in the September 2022 issue of ELLE, on newsstands July 28.
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